12-year-old Climber Wins National Crown: Seventh-grader ‘sticks’ the hold competitors could only ‘slack’
By Sharael Feist
Sept. 12, 1998
Hanging 50 feet above the ground by only his fingertips and toes, 12-year-old Ethan Pringle does not know the meaning of fear. A rock climber, Pringle spends most of his time practicing on the walls at Mission Cliffs, an indoor rock climbing facility in the South of Market area. His passion has paid off, as Pringle just won the U.s. Junior National Climbing Championship.
The national championship competition in Thorton, Colorado, sponsored by the Junior Competition Climbing Association (JCCA), drew a number of young climbers from around the country. Competitors scored points based on how far up the 50-foot indoor route they managed to climb. It was an on-site event, in which the climbers were kept in isolation so that they were unable to see the route before climbing it. This kept them from seeing how other climbers moved up the route, and they were allowed just one attempt at the artificial-rock wall.
Pringle won by only half a hold. His toughest competitors, Johnny Weary of Lafayette and David Marquess of Colorado Springs, Colorado, both “slacked” the last hold, which means they just touched it before falling, while Pringle “stuck” it, and held on.
Pringle began rock climbing quite by accident. About two years ago, Pringle and his dad, Bob, were driving past Mission Cliffs, an indoor-climbing facility on Harrison and 19th streets, and stopped to see what it was. Once he saw the massive climbing walls with over 200 routes waiting to be conquered, the younger Pringle was hooked. He went back that same night to give it a try and has been climbing almost daily ever since.
The Rooftop School seventh-grader says he enjoys both indoor and outdoor rock climbing, and some of his favorite outdoor spots include Pinnacles Park (near Salinas) and Mickey’s Beach (in Marin County). Pringle admits that it’s not easy learning how to climb. He trains to be competitive. “It takes lots of practice and strength. You have to be devoted,” Pringle said.
To start climbing indoors, relatively little equipment is needed. A basic starter kit includes a harness and related equipment, chalk bag (to keep hands from getting sweaty) and climbing shoes. The total cost for this equipment is about $200.
Pringle’s parents encourage his passion for climbing. “Climbing takes a lot of responsibility, good analytical skills and the ability to figure things out. These things have carried over to other parts of his life,” says Laurie Mont, Pringle’s mom. “When I first saw it, it looked scary, but I trust the people he climbs with, and Ethan is very skilled.”
Rock climbing might appear to be dangerous, but Pringle’s coach, Jolie Karno, says that at Mission Cliffs, safety is the number one priority. Safety ropes are used to catch the climber before he or she hits the ground. Kama says that being competitive depends on spirit, drive, ability to take direction, focus, dedication and a love for the sport. “If they have fun, they’ll do well,” she says.
Kama and national champion speed climber Chris Bloch work with Pringle on technique, strength and injury prevention.
“I’m really proud of Ethan. He is one of the most self-motivated children I’ve ever met. He is well mannered and thoughtful and encourages the other kids,” Karno says.
Rock climbing routes generally range in level of difficulty from 5.0 to 5.14D. Pringle has successfully finished a 5.13A route. According to Kama, only about 2 percent of the world’s population can climb 5.10.
As a member of the U.S. Youth Climbing Team, Pringle has been invited to compete in the Junior International Invitational, which will be held on October 17 at Mission Cliffs. It will be the first international junior competition to be held in the United States, and the JCCA expects nearly 150 competitors from Canada, Austria, Japan, USA and South Africa to compete in the event.
Pringle plans on climbing for many more years. “When you’re really old you can’t climb, but I hope to climb until I’m really old,” he said.
For more information about indoor rock climbing visit the Mission Cliffs website at www.mission-cliffs.com.