By Sharael Feist
2003
Things to Know to Buy the Right Shoes for You If the shoe fits…wear it. If it doesn’t fit, you’ll be sorry because after hours of climbing your feet will be killing you. It’s very important to get the right shoes for the type of climbing you plan to do, as well as a good fit. Whether you’re a beginner or an advanced c1imber–there’s a specific type of shoe for you. Are you going to go big wall climbing or bouldering? There are a lot of things that determine which shoes are the best choice. “When buying a climbing shoe, it’s very important to get a pair that fits properly and feels comfortable,” says REI climbing expert Bob Ranoa.”You don’t want the shoe to be loose or to be cutting off the circulation.” For those of you who are thinking about saving yourself some cash and climbing barefoot–you could, but it’s easier with shoes on. “The purpose of rock climbing shoes is to maintain friction on the rock,” Ranoa says. “They provide more grip power with your feet.”
Here are some things to look for depending on your ability level:
Beginners: Ranoa says that beginners probably want to go with a stiffer pair of shoes. Also, “board lasted” shoes offer more stability. They have a lining in them that protects the feet and is easier on the leg muscles, especially the calves, because of the support.
Experts: For climbers who have more experience, a softer pair of shoes is better, according to Ranoa. Ones that are “slip lasted” don’t have a lining and allow the climber to feel the rock better.
Lace-ups vs. slip-ons
If you’re going to buy lace-up shoes, Ranoa explains that you should lace them up tightly, enough to feel the shoe, but not cut off your circulation. And don’t wear socks. He recommends buying a half size smaller than what you normally wear. Make sure there are no spaces or gaps. That means the shoes are too big. If you prefer slip-ons, make sure they are tight because you can’t adjust them, like you can with lace-ups. These are usually better for more advanced climbers. “Be sure to try on both shoes. Your feet might be slightly different sizes,” advises Ranoa. “Make sure they feel comfortable on both feet.” The best time to try on shoes is in the afternoon, when your feet are a little swollen from being on them all day. Ranoa recommends this because he says that once you start climbing, your feet will swell. You’ll get a better fit in the afternoon.
Bouldering
If you’re going to focus mainly on bouldering, you’ll want a specific type of shoe. Bouldering shoes offer more of a heel and have more padding in the heel. “These types of shoes absorb more energy,” Ranoa explains. A word of caution: the coloring on the shoes will bleed onto your feet once your feet start sweating. If you buy a bright blue pair of shoes, don’t be alarmed when you take them off and your feet are blue. Also, your shoes will probably stink. Sweating in your shoes with no socks on will naturally make your shoes, and feet, smell.